11 June 2008
This morning when I awoke around 7:30 the rain was pouring from the sky. The first song on my ipod was fittingly “I’ll take the rain” by REM. I typically walk 30 minutes in the morning from my flat to my work. This morning the rain would not stop, so I decided to take the train. I realized that taking the train takes about as much time as walking, with the only benefit that it gives me plenty of time to read. I arrived to work 15 minutes late, but it is a volunteer job, so who really is counting? I finished my work creating a picassa photo album of Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens (awesome place that like all of Cape Town, I will miss immensely), and then began my work of writing genetics lab practicals that can be done in schools with access to limited lab materials. The work is challenging but rewarding because I know that my work will hopefully help the teachers and students with genetics since a huge part of the matric exam is genetics. A former teacher came by and spoke to us about why he sees education as the most important thing to prevent xenophobia and other problems throughout SA. He made some good points, and like everything I see here, the education system is great on paper, but implementing the progressive ideas is when the problems appear. After the meeting, my fellow interns and I crammed into the van to go to Phillipi- the township where our work is concentrated- to talk to the teachers about what subjects they want covered for winter school. The chemistry teacher told me that he would like lessons for 2 hours a day for all 3 weeks, and for me to teach his learners all of chemistry because he hasn’t had chemistry himself since grade 12. I am a bit overwhelmed- but I hope my being here will help some poor kid understand a bit more chemistry than what he or she currently knows. The biology teacher asked for my flash drive and gave me a ton of files containing the syllabus and other critical information. Unfortunately, when I arrived back at the office, I discovered that all of her files were infected with a virus. I was given my own personal copies of the text books, which are more like study guides than real text books. I began reading the genetics section of the life science text book and it said “Cattle always produce cattle; they never produce horses or elephants…Parents always produce offspring that look like them in some ways and also differ in some ways.” Of course cows produce cows- otherwise we wouldn’t label them as such- the actual meaning of genetics is completely distorted by this way of viewing the world- and this is what the kids have to read. The standards the state sets are much higher than what the textbook thinks the students are capable of. And now continuing on with my day, Kerry and I decided to do our typical hummus and pita lunch after the meeting, and then I began working. I left around 4:20 so that I could get home in enough time to go for a run. I ran, came home, went shopping, made dinner, and then rushed out the door to see movie with my fellow interns. The movie we wanted to see was sold out, and we learned that in South African movie theaters, you are assigned seats. The mall where the movie theater is located is decadent. The gaps here are immense. You are either dreadfully poor or super rich. Of course there are people in between, but the contrast between what rich and poor mean is stark and ever present. Everyone was tired, so we split- nice adventure. I rode home in the rent-a-bug with one of the French interns and her Dutch flat mate. I like the rent-a-bug concept. The company rents 1960s VW Beetles for a low cost, so you get the vintage and affordable all in one. And now I write. This is a typical day in Cape Town, a city I will never want to leave.
Forces
Two oceans converged at one to create you
Violent storms
Fierce winds
Carved the land.
Waves beat you, winds shook you, rains flooded you,
But you stood steadfast.
Those fierce winds and violent storms
Brought guests to you.
Guests hoping to find sister lands,
Guests exhausted from long journeys
Guests wanting peace.
The guests were grateful for your refuge,
More came to tame you,
Make you a place where they as guests could survive
And find solace from those powerful forces that surround you.
Fierce landscape, only the strongest survived
Wars, turmoil over your precious resources
Fueled by greediness and pride.
You cried in agony, but no one listened.
You saw what hate destroyed
A beautiful bride tainted by a growing scourge
Those guests who once sought you for refuge
sped away to new lands
New lands where solace could be found.
New lands where the fierce storms of
Poverty, indolence, racism, sexism, pride, lust,
Remained at bay
You cried at the loss, your soils raped
Your beauty marred, by the unseen
Your guests asked what they could do
They searched for a panacea
That quickly faded when found
bringing demons
Far stronger than those of before
They fight themselves
You watch as a pained host,
Powerless, yet hopeful
That they will one day see.
Wishing, waiting, hoping,
That the solace you once provided
Can be re-discovered in your sharp rock faces
Created by brutal waves
Before hidden wind
And waves annihilate those you have
Sheltered so tenderly.
For much of my life, religion has been an area of constant struggle. As some philosophers have said and with whom I readily agree, there must be a balance between mental, spiritual and physical realms for a person to achieve complete fulfillment in their lives. I think that often organized religion fills the role for spirituality in many people's lives, however, I also find that religion causes much strife and pain when used incorrectly.One may wonder why I address this topic while in Africa, but I think that it has some relevance to recent events.
On Sunday I had the opportunity to attend two churches in one day. In the morning, I attended my usual church after much internal bickering, and I am glad that I did so. The people were welcoming and friendly, something that does not always ocurr. I was amazed at the level of knowledge the students in the Sunday school class had about all sorts of doctrinal issues. In previous classes I have attended in various other places, I have felt like I was the one who knew all of the answers and that no one else really understood. It is wrong for me to assume that the other students didn't know anything, but this was my perception. I enjoyed seeing people who were actively involved in their religion and actively thought about what they were being taught. It seems that far too often in my religious experience people are exposed to a variety of things and claim that they believe, yet their actions show otherwise. Additionally, they claim to believe something but never really sit down to think about all of the implications of the belief.
The next church service I attended was a youth service in Rondebosch where my landlord's son goes to church. The church was only recently opened and the foyer is reminiscent of a beautiful hotel. The congregation was much larger than that of the previous service. Most people were nice but also completely impersonal. The service addressed the cosmos and how God cares about each individual person no matter how small we may appear in relationship to the entire universe. The subject was thought provoking and inspirational, however, I didn't understand the songs. The songs were repetitive and kept on mentioning that God is great and wonderful, but nothing about what people should do to live like God or what is required other than admitting you are a sinner. I am perhaps overly judgemental, but I think that music reflects a lot about a religion. I felt small and insignificant in this church, although I am sure this is not what those ministering would have liked me to feel. I also had the impression that the people in attendance didn't think too critically about everything, but again, how critical are those who attend my church.
Carl Marx once said religion was "opium of the masses". I agree on some levels with this remark because often those who are religious and impoverished find a hope within religion that someday God will see the struggles of their lives and pour out abundant blessing in the afterlife. When religion is taken away from people, as was done in the USSR, there is a great loss of hope and in some cases basic morality. Religion is a critical expression of humanity for many people and a form of hope. Religion is ubiquitous, although I think our present society has repressed it and views negatively and with skepticism. I am one who hides my religious activities out of fear that those in my field may find me inadequate as a scientist for believing in that which cannot be proved. Religon is like astrology in our society- not really accepted as truth but allowed to persist.
Now, how does religion tie into my South African experience? I am presently reading the new book by Mamphela Ramphele, a local Capetonian, entitled Laying Ghosts to Rest: Dilemmas of the transformation in South Africa. This book speaks about religion and how it was marginalized during apartheid and now. Religion as a function allows us, in Rampehle's words, to transcend that which has happened in the past and to start anew. I think an honest and real effort to adhere to some kind of code of humanity ie spiritual guideline is needed in this world. There is too much hate and fear. Humanity is too special to go extinct in such a brutal, uncaring manner. If people learn to love themselves, their families, their communities, their world, and transcend that which has happened to them, the world will become a place where living is possible. In the present state, the world is a scary place with a few are living very well and many others paying the price hoping that someday they will be given the same blessings of capitalism, whether through legal or illegal means. Organized religion provides a guideline for living that shows that some higher being had some purpose in creating this world and its inhabitants. Some teach love and respect for all people. I do not agree with many of the methods used by organized religions, however, if this is the only way for people to find spirituality and basic decency towards others, than so be it. Religion must strengthen a person to love and care for all of humanity- not detract like so many of our current outlets in society- and in this manner perhaps we will save a few and come to terms with those who oppress us and to those who we oppress. Religion can be a code of ethics that when understood properly- can be a powerful tool for the preservation of basic huamn rights. I am not endorsing or criticizing religion. I only wish to come to terms with it, and understand how it can be employed to create the world I wish to be a citizen.
I ran out of underwear today, so I knew it was time to do my washing and so the adventure began. I am so used to my big washer that washes, rinses, and spins my clothes so I didn't know what to think when I met my plug-into-the-sink washing machine in my new flat. The machine frightened me at first with its two compartments, one for washing and rinsing, and the other for wringing. I consulted one of my flat mates about my ordeal and after giving me a funny look, she proceeded to help me figure out how to use the machine. It seemed quite simple- add the clothes, add the soap, fill the tub with water with a hose attached to the kitchen sink faucet, and turn it on. Wait- hose from the kitchen sink- perhaps like the sketchy dishwasher in my house in Athens? I proceeded to place my clothes into the abyss, add the soap, and turn the machine on. My clothes were washed as the machine gently twirled around changing directions every five seconds or so. After the first cycle, I pressed the drain button to release the murky grey water and began the self imposed "rinse" cycle to get rid of the remnants of sweat and soap. (wearing running clothes several days in a row=gross). I finally finished after about 30 minutes with the initial washing. It was now time for wringing . An imposing sign on the wringing compartment reads "Max 4kg. If machine shakes violently, take clothing out or redistribute weight." I thought I would err on the side of safety so I performed this cycle 3 times to spin all of my clothes. I observed the violent shaking only once fortunately- and redistribution solved this problem. The final step is hanging the wash out to dry. I started with the first wrung laundry and remembered days long past when I had to hang laundry in my grandparents backyard in sunny San Diego, hopping over plants and trying to attach huge bed sheets to the clothes line. Fortunately, my clothes are on a rack so I don't have to worry about people walking off with my clothes or about leaving them outside. I ran out of clothespins, so I became quite creative (much sarcasm) and hung my clothes over the metal rack hoping that they won't fall off. I covered the entire rack with my clothes, and it is not that I had that much laundry, rather, it is only a rack. As a finished putting my last few pieces of undergarments on the rack, the wind began blowing nicely. It had rained earlier in the day, but at the time the sun was out and everything seemed perfect enough for Cape Town and drying laundry in the winter. I left my clothing out on the porch and then headed out to Spar with one of my flat mates. Upon return the weather still looked promising for drying. I decided to check up on my laundry before cooking dinner- fortunately I did because with the sun shining brightly the rain came again! I attempted to fold up the rack and get into the kitchen. Fortunately my flat mate is more rack inclined and knew how to fold it so that I could bring the wash into the house. I ran in and placed the rack in my bedroom. Now the rack is the centerpiece to my room. It is rather chilly tonight, so I don't want to open the window, although I am sure that it would help my clothes dry. We will see if what they say is true- that it is impossible to have dry wash in Cape Town in winter because of the rain and humidity.
Part 1: Paris, Joburg, etc.
26/5/08Abbreviations: ATL= Atlanta JFK=John F. Kennedy airport in NYC CDG= Charles De Gualle in Paris CT= Cape Town Joburg= Johannesburg
So I began this adventure a week ago today. My day was quite full with the finishing touches of packing for 3 months, packing my house for grad school, and sorting out all of the last minute details that I had previously little time to act. I finished my packing and my dear mother picked me up (also assisted in packing because I avidly avoid doing it until the absolute last minute) to go to ATL. Upon arrival at the airport I discovered that my bag was 15 lbs overweight, which meant that I would have had to pay $80 to bring my bag. I knew that I was only allowed 20kg on my flight to CT, so I had to lose some baggage weight. My fifteen cut pounds included all of my sweaters, 1 pair of shoes, and a few other sundry things. My wardrobe became limited, and hopefully it doesn’t become too cold here.
All of my flights went quite well. I arrived at CDG around noon and then had to go through the tortuous airport and customs to finally find the RER to get into Paris. Fortunately a dear French woman helped me with my ticket so that I ended up getting the right amount. I caught the first possible train, but I was incredibly tired after all of my adventures. The last thing I wanted to do was to sit in a train guarding my backpack from muggers, but I managed to stay semi-consiscious under the influence of the gentle lull of the train. Elizabeth directed me to the busiest metro station in the world. I am glad that my problems here were only limited to my card losing its magnetism. Fortunately, with the aide of two French women and many hand motions, I was able to procure a new card so that I would not spend my twelve hour Paris layover in the metro station. I met Elizabeth in a charming Parisian park. This park bordered one of the districts that Napoleon III did not destroy in his effort to modernize Paris in the 19th century. Humming with activity from the various shops and restaurants, Elizabeth skillfully directed us through the winding streets to a charming falafel place. We took our falafels to a nice park and had lunch. I enjoyed it thoroughly.
I told Elizabeth to bring me to places that the average tourist would not visit, and she was true to my request. We visited the cemetery where Chopin, Oscar Wilde, and Bob Morrison are all buried. This cemetery commemorated all of the concentration camps in addition to many of the old families of Paris. Great trees shadowed the rickety cobblestone roads that wound throughout the cemetery with no real formula or reason. Supposedly during the Napoleon III era many of the cemeteries in the city center were moved to the outskirts of the city to make room for new construction, yet now the city has grown to include the cemeteries.
Elizabeth also brought me to the Sorbonne and other gorgeous buildings. We had the most splendid ice cream in a park near the Sorbonne and discussed politics among other things. For dinner, we went to a quiche place with a delightful middle aged woman who told us we could stay as long as we wanted and who makes amazing quiche for prices a poor student can actually afford. The day ended with a trip to a medieval amphitheater where families and children were playing. Paris is an amazing city because everything is still alive, which is what this closing scene of the day reminded me. You can imagine that at one time there were giant riots throughout the streets in protest to crazy rulers like Napoleon and Louis XIV, while watching small children play in once dangerous places. Unlike many places that become a museum, where the past is unable to change, Paris is vibrant and ever changing, yet the same culture permeates through the people. The people are a conglomerate of old and new, something rarely found in modern society.
Elizabeth brought me back to the metro and the RER. Fortunately on this metro trip there were no men trying to woo us- unlike a previous journey earlier in the day. I was sad to leave, but happy for my new adventures.
Air-France does an amazing job- although I slept through most of my flight to Joburg from CDG. Unfortunately I was next to an obnoxious couple from Idaho on this flight. While I was sleeping, the old man kept on putting his leg next to mine. I was sitting in a window seat and there was absolutely nowhere for me to go. My previous flight to CDG from JFK also involved an old couple, but they were French and had a greater sense of how one should act on airplane and moved with grace and finesse. Despite all of this, I met Vanessa at the airport in Joburg. We arrived at her beautiful old-new house close to noon. The house is splendid with repeating African motifs and great windows through which light envelops the house. I was thoroughly impressed. Casper and Anouk came home from school shortly after I arrived and we had a lovely lunch with them. In addition to Bijoux, the dog, and Wolke, the rabbit, two new cats have entered into the family. All are very well behaved and quite friendly. All of us and Bijoux went to the park so that Casper could spend the afternoon running around with other little boys around the age of 5-6. Casper has lots of energy and is taller than most of the children in his class so this activity was needed. Bijoux was happy for a walk and ran around the park like he was still a puppy even though he is 10 and gets very tired when runs so much. We said our goodbyes and headed home. I went for a run while Vanessa took a breather. Later, Anouk and I went cycling in the park and then returned home. Vanessa does a great job cooking and made us a fabulous meal- as usual. Frank arrived home after a hard day in the office and we talked about the Paul problem. I hope it wasn’t too draining for him. Eventually we all went to bed. The following day I went to the speech Festival at Anouk’s school. Anouk gave an excellent recitation of her poem and received a gold award. She had gymnastics that afternoon so we gave some of her teammates a ride to University of Pretoria for training. Vanessa and I pursued through a fabulous artsy market while waiting for her. All of the shops were filled with French style furnishings and scents as well as antique furniture and African art. I had a strawberry smoothie, which I enjoyed very much. I was very impressed with Anouk and her teammates. They all were in such control of their bodies- doing things that I will never be able to even consider.
On Friday, I ran in the morning and gave Bijoux his morning walk, which he enjoyed while Vanessa went to her exercise class. Vanessa’s mom came over later, which was quite nice. I gave all of the presents to the children and Vanessa in the afternoon before Anouk’s gymnastics group class. They enjoyed them all and all Casper wanted was to have my full attention so I could help him build all of his lego models. All went well and Saturday came before I knew it. Breakfast turned into brunch and was delightful. Frank took the kids to get new helmets for their bikes and Vanessa and I played Rummikub- so much fun! Vanessa was getting sick- which is awful. I left with few problems from Joburg to CT. I was a little bit apprehensive because I didn’t know how everything would turn out, but I guess it turned out well enough because I am writing to you now. I met Daniellle de Kock, the director of the art program at the airport. She brought me to my flat, which is massive. The room is the largest I have had since I began university. It has hardwood floors and lots of natural lighting. It is also very affordable in comparison to my rent in Athens. Danielle invited met to a Braai on Sunday and I accepted.
On Sunday, my flat mates showed me where it was safe to run, so I went on a nice run. My landlady is quite nice, although she was up in our flat at least three times in the morning. The power went out for load-sharing or something- but all turned out okay and we got the power back after 4hrs. Danielle picked me up and brought me to her parents house in the afternoon. I met plenty of interesting people while eating braai delicacies in the backyard of a 100+ year old house. Sunday ended well.
And now to today. I arrived at the office around 9:30 am and learned that we were having a staff meeting at 10:15. I met all of my new colleagues and of the task ahead of me. Unfortunately the program is not incredibly well organized, but it is doing a great deal of good- so I think I can get around the momentary issues with organization. After our meeting, I learned more about the gap-year program from the French interns and then had free time. Liz- another American who was studying in Durban and is in Cape Town for the summer- was in the same position as me- the great unknown. We talked, checked e-mail, got lunch, and then I hurried off with Danielle to deliver blankets to some of the displaced people in some of the recent xenophobic attacks. Danielle is an artist and assists with the art program at Phillipe high in one of the townships. I accompanied her to the meeting and met many of the students. They were to construct a comic strip about life. The comics the students developed included many depressing topics such as AIDs, rape, alcohol, cigarettes, and attacks by dogs. I am amazed that the people can survive in the conditions in which they live. There is an incredible amount of filth and the houses(if you can call a shack a house) are crammed together. The amount of unemployment is astronomical. I only hope that my small contributions will lead to a positive change in at least one persons life while I am here. Danielle dropped me off, and I went on an evening run. I hope to keep this blog semi- updated about my adventures. I think it will be a great learning experience for me and those that I am in contact with. I only hope my being here leads to a better South Africa- one that was envisioned when South Africa was founded.
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